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View Full Version : A Nicaragua adventure story


Pasogirlz
01-05-2006, 04:42 PM
August 2004

An American Princess visits third world country! Things I missed most...ice in my drinks...air conditioned houses...smooth, paved, roads (just cuz they were paved, don't mean they were smooth)....and most of all...my pillow top mattress and egypitian cotton sheets of high tread count.

I will start by saying, I was lucky to make my flight. I was the very last person to board and there were only two minutes before the scheduled time to take off. But I made it. I had to sit in the middle of two men and I felt kinda scrunched in. The fella to my left insisted on making conversation so I told him that I was going to Managua for the big horse parade on sunday. He said "Oh yes, this is a great parade with many fine horses." It is a big tradition in that country for everyone to bring out the best of the best horses to show off to everyone. Although some folks just bring what ever horse they can borrow just to ride in the parade. There would be much drinking and celebrating in the street, as well as fine horses and their riders in all sorts of costume. I was getting excited hearing about the event I would attend. Then the guy says to me that the Andalusian horse is the most intimidating horse....and I said..."have you ever seen a Paso Fino?" and he said, "aren't those small horses like ponies?" and I said, "yeah, but they have a lot of brio and can be quite intimidating to watch and ride." So the guy tells me, "you will see for yourself." and I agreed...I would. (I highly doubted this non-riders opinion)

I arrive at the air port and after customs and baggage claim, I am greeted by my host (a very good customer of my b/f) right outside the airport doors. We had met at dinner once in Miami so we recognized each other thank goodness. He had his driver pull up in a white Mercedes and pick us up and drive me to my hotel. On the way thru the city, whenever we would stop at a light, small children would come up to the car and beg at the window. A small, dirty, little girl dressed in rags cupped her hands at the front passanger window begging for a quarter, then she moved to the back window. The light changed and we drove on. The next light, it was a small boy, same routine. My first look at REAL poverty outside of the United States.

I arrived at my hotel, checked in to the Seminole (aka Seminole-Hard Rock Cafe hotel chain). My host told me his driver would be there to pick me up at 9 am to take me to his ranch. I would try out his horses and choose the one I wanted to ride in the parade. I thanked him and turned in for the evening.


So the next morning, I am greeted by the driver who of course speaks NO ENGLISH. I know "un pequito" so I struggled thru it.

I asked him to "alto" at the Esso (Exxon) so I could grab a drink, quick snack, and a bathroom before we got too far off the beaten path. There are armed gaurds at all the gas stations, not to mention all over the place. FYI - a convienience store in the U.S. is truely a convienience store. Their gas stations were necessity stores. They do not have the aisles of candy bars and chips that we do. They have only a few selections, take them or leave them.

The ride from the city of Managua to the small village of Granada is about an hour and 45 min. drive. The road out of the city was paved, but had many pot holes and rough spots where other repairs had been made. The driver drove at about 80 mph over this bumpy road, swerving to avoid various things from pedestrians, horse drawn carts, bicycles and more. I past many horses, cows, pigs, and goats, just eating grass along the road. Some were tied out, while others just roamed free. Most of the horses I saw were very thin, hip and back bones showing. Only 1 out of every 12 horses looked like what I would call an "ok" weight or condition. Just when I thought I could take no more of the bumpy ride, we turned off on a dirt road that made me wish I was back on the paved section. This road was filled with holes as well, and had many puddles of mud to drive around. Not to mention, the driver only slowed down to about 60 mph to manage the swerving. I felt like I was on a 2-hour fair ride that I could not get off!

Finally to the barn, I saw two beautiful grey Andalusians tied out as if drying after a bath when we pulled in. I forgot all about the horrible drive and floated into the barn to see the rest of the horses.

There wasn't anyone at the barn who spoke english, but everyone seemed to know what they were supposed to do. They started saddleing up a huge grey stallion. He had a dark mane, tail, and points on his legs with just a few dapples. I was offered to ride first, but I suggested I watch first, then ride. The horses are so big they are trained that with a tap on the ankle area, they will stretch out for you to get on better. The trainer rode the stallion around showing off his strides and buttons. They use a long whip or stick to make them do the spanish walk. I got my turn and just jogged around a bit getting used to the horse. Then we decided I needed spurs. I found the horse to be a bit sluggish and cold blooded. Spurs on and he was a bit more responsive. I galloped him around the arena and had the guys snap a few pix. Then they asked if I was ready for "otro" (another)? So I said sure, and they saddled up a very tall white/grey stallion named Shabdiz. He had very long strides compared to the horse before. The extension on his long trot was amazing and his head carriage even more impressive. I decided to take this horse out for a ride. He handled like a dream. More responsive than the first horse, handling more like my Arab. We galloped down a dirt road, me just feeling his mighty strides and the breeze on my face. I past a few shack like houses, some were no more than cement blocks with a tin roof and dirt floor. It's inhabitants more than likely unemployed, sat outside with children and animals in the shade. After I felt like I had put the horse thru it's paces enough to be comfortable, we turned back to the ranch. Before I could get back, I saw my driver on bicycle coming to check on me. :lol:

Once dismounted, I was asked "otro?" So of course, I said sure! The same routine was followed for the large bay and the black stallion I rode. The black horse was a bit smaller and when I mounted him, I almost expected him to break into paso gait, but he never did. He was a little more hyper to ride and harder to control. However, he did have a lovely slow canter. Usually just the kind of horse I would pick to ride, but for the parade the next day, I wanted the horse I felt safest on. Shabdiz was the horse that I trusted to have a level head, so he would be my mount for the next day. I left the barn that afternoon exhausted. I rode till I could not ride an "otro" horse. It was a long bumpy ride back to the hotel but I couldn't have been happier.

The next morning, my Gracious Host met me for breakfast at the hotel where I finally got to ask some questions about his horses (since he spoke english very well). He told me that the first horse I rode was his "in training project" right now. He was a young Spaniard horse of about 5 years old. Shabdiz was 12 years old and had some Arabian back in his bloodline of Spaniard horses. Which is why he had a longer, slender neck and head of an Arab more than he was the heavy weight of the first horse. The bay stallion was also a nice horse, but not the favorite of my Gracious Host, so he was considering selling him. I learned the black stallion was mixed with a Peruvian Paso, which is probably why I expected him to just gait at any moment. I did not try out my Gracious Host's horse, because I did not want to be rude by taking his horse for the parade. And there was one other stallion I did not ride, a white stallion w/blue eyes. He looked like a cross bred and it turns out, he was part "Quarter Mile" and part Azteca or something. He was pretty, but had no papers. At any rate, I was already sure I wanted to ride Shabdiz at the parade. He felt most steady and level headed out of all the stallions I rode. My Gracious Host explained to me the days events would include about 1500-2000 horses, ridden by people of all different riding abilities, showing off their horses in the street after drinking all day. Basically he wanted to make sure I could handle it if the drunk guy next to me lost control of his horse.

We arrived at a place in town where horses were already being unloaded. All the guys from the barn yesterday were already there with our horses. You would not believe the trucks they carry the horses around in. Not horse trailors by our standards at all. They are basically trucks w/a cab in the front, and a bed that is high off the ground and has boards up the sides. (I have a pic to post later). They had to back up to a hill to unload the horses and they kept them separated while traveling by sliding fence posts between them. Their heads hung over the side of the wooden rails of the truck. I just could not believe that is how they carry around their horses. Looked very dangerous to me.

As we got the horses ready, I rode mine around immediate area a bit to explore. I must have taken longer than I thought b/c when returned, everyone in my party was gone. :shock: Panic attack! My eyes searched the faces of the ppl around me and I saw no familiar ones. I spoke limited spanish and had no idea WHERE I was supposed to be or where my party had gone. I began riding my horse in the same direction as the rest of the ppl who seemed to know where they were going. After several minutes of feeling really small I recognized the white horse w/blue eyes from the farm. I didn't recognize the rider, but I was sure that wast the same horse. So I followed it.....and of course did manage to meet up w/my group. *sigh of relief

The parade took all day, the heat was almost unbearable. It moved slow, but I guess that gave everyone time to drink and socialize. The ppl along the streets who knew a rider would offer a shot, or beer, or other drink as we passed along. And let me tell you the turn out for this event was shocking. The number of ppl who came out to see this parade of 2000 horses was astounding. I was amazed that most everyone kept their horses under control even in those conditions. But the traditional Spainard dress on both horses and rider were a sight to see. Horses decorated up w/ribbons in their manes and groomed to the hilt.

I had a tendancy to ride my horse up and down the road b/c the parade would stop so much. At one point, I got off my horse for something, and out of no where, one of the farm hands stepped out of the crowd to hold my horse for me while I mounted. I hadn't realized....I had a farm hand assigned to follow my every move. I bet I wore him slap out riding all over the place. :oops:

After the parade, the farm hands took the horse home, and we all went to dinner at a nice steak house.

The next day, My Gracious Hosts wife picked me up for some shopping in the local village for souvineers. What a neat experience. American money is worth about 3 times what the money there was worth, so I brought home lots of things for the family including a hand made hammock. 8-)

After shopping, we went to their home for lunch. The house was large and furnished beautifully, BUT they didn't have the A/C on. :shock: Just fans moving around the warm air.

I was so thirsty, when the maid offered me iced tea I quickly drank down the whole glass.
**up until this point, I had only drank the bottled water or gatoraide I brought myself, or coke in a can.

After lunch, I was soooo sick, I heaved up my lunch. I think it was the local water in the iced tea. :puke

I have to ad the next day I got to go to the farm agian and ride my Hosts horse. He was a magnificent white/grey stallion, very proud, named Fundador. I was able to take him out on the country road for a ride w/the young stable boy as an escort on the bay stallion. We couldn't understand each other, but I would see an open strech of road and say "galope?" and we'd take off on the Andy's racing each other like a good Lord of the Rings scene. I was laughing my head off but at the same time soaking in the scenery and the feeling of that powerful stride of Fundador as we raced. *Wind in my hair, hooves pounding

At one point on the country road, I passed these two children walking (a boy and girl maybe 5-6 yrs old). As I passed them my eyes met the little boy and he said in the cutest little boy voice..."munyeca" which means "doll" and winked at me I had to laugh at him flirting w/me.

But seriously, I also passed a lot of concrete block houses w/tin or thatched rooves with the family sitting outside. Most ppl in that village outside Managua where the farm was were very, very poor. The unemployment there is like 70%....so if you could even get a job as a maid or stable hand...you were in the 30% employed.


One thing I did notice after a while...was that w/all the animals running about, I didn't see one cat. So I mention this strange phenonmenon of no cats to my (then) b/f. He grew up in Nicaragua but left to escape the war to England as a young man before coming to the states. He said when he was a young boy cats over populated the country. He then explained that since many of the people lived in houses w/thatched roofs or tin roofs, the stray cats could often be heard at night...all night...doing the things that stray cats do...fighting, howling all night because they are in heat, or having loud cat sex because there is another male trying to get in on the action....on the roof of the house, distrubing the families sleep. So cats are not exactly the house pet that they are here, more like a nuisance. Then I am told that it was a fun past time of the kids, expecially the boys, to kill the cats in new and exciting ways, but mostly they made good target practice for the sling shot competition. (I guess they didn't have Nintendo to keep them occupied.) So I guessed after 20 or so years of this practice....no cats are left....at least I didn't see a single one. And it's not like they were being kept inside the house or someting. Or maybe the dogs ate them...some of them looked pretty hungry.


Anyway, I was not intimidated in any way of these horses, as my airport buddy had warned me. Anything I have to work to get worked up and use so much leg pressure and spurs, that is not intimidating compared to some of the Paso stallions I have ridden (even though they are small). I also had to explain why we paso people prize the "finos" who take tiney little steps and the more "lower handed" they are the better. They could not understand why we don't want them to pick their feet up as high as possible, which I explained was the "performance" style of paso, and prized more by the Americans than by the Colombians.

I also saw many working horses (over worked, under fed, skinny and sad looking) I felt sorry for...but then I realized how vital they are to the families there. I saw a family driving a poor looking mare at a steady trot with a buckboard type contraption behind it...and a little foal no more than a month old was trotting right along side it's dam on the street. I was horrified at first, but then realized if they did not put that mare back to work soon after the foals birth, they had no transportation to get food or supplies or the things they needed to survive. Certainly a different world. I am so thankful to live in the country that I do!

The people there were very friendly to me as an American. I could not believe the amount of people who came out just to see a parade of horses, but it is tradition there to do that on August 1st. (So mark your calendars!) It is like a party of some Saints and this is the day they "come out" and then 10 days later they do the parade and party again and the Saints "go back". I understand they also do something like this in Spain on another weekend, and a few other cities do it also, but the one in Managua is said to be the biggest and more horses are there. I saw lots of people from the U.S. there just for the parade also. A texan dressed to the hilt in his silk purple cowboy shirt and black stetson, even brought his own saddle laden in silver to put on the horse he was riding...a fine Spainard like mine.

It was an experience I will not soon forget.

edited to add
Here are some pix from last year....they are already promoting the parade for this year.

http://www.chavalo.com/galeria/showphoto.php?photo=235&cat=503

Brigitte
01-05-2006, 06:04 PM
Sounds very cool indeed, and the "trailers" you mentioned they have in Colombia too. When I was there for the Mundial I saw my horse in that sort of trailer I was shocked :shock: , but I got my horse to ride anyway so it's all good :lol:

So where are the pictures?? Get your scanner out !

Terry Wallace
01-05-2006, 06:21 PM
What a great read! Kind of sounds like how it is in Mexico.... boney horses & dogs in a very poor country.... begging children that come up to your car at every stop.....

Photos please! You know we wanna SEE.....

Pasogirlz
01-05-2006, 07:09 PM
You guys are gonna force me to squeeze it into my schedule aren't ya? But it might have to wait till after the show this weekend. It's Showtime deadline time so I've been busy after work all week.

Brigitte
01-05-2006, 07:30 PM
Ok I guess we can wait a LITTLE longer :lol: . Neh just make sure we get to see them, better late then never

Pasomom
01-05-2006, 08:01 PM
nice recap Lori, You dun good!

Pasogirlz
01-05-2006, 08:41 PM
I went home and appreciated my job, and my country and then told my spoiled cat how lucky he was not to live in Nicaragua. :shock:

~pasowave~
01-06-2006, 09:00 PM
That's awesome Lori!!!!!!!! Sounds like the parade was really cool!!!!!! How hot was it down there during the day?? Were thinking about going to Costa Rica to surf later on this winter and just wondering.
Yeah, deffinatly post some pic's!!!!! :D

Pasogirlz
01-06-2006, 09:04 PM
It was pretty darn hot. I'd say mid to high 90's. The temp at the ranch seemed less b/c of the breezes, but the parade day was killer b/c the asphault seems to make it worse and there was less shade.

Pasogirlz
07-01-2007, 03:02 PM
Here are some pix from last year....they are already promoting the parade for this year.

http://www.chavalo.com/galeria/showphoto.php?photo=235&cat=503

JennLM
07-01-2007, 04:17 PM
At first I thought it was you telling a joke, then I realized it was YOU actually going down there.

How lucky are you? To ge to see another part of the world and especially sample all those horses, wow!

I cannot imagine that many horses in one place at one time in a parade. Amazing!

I am just waiting for all your pics so I can see it all.

The furthest I have been in a bit south of Ensenada, to Punta Banda, Mexico for a Marine Biology excursion.

I think anyone who gets to leave and go visit other countries to experience other cultures will look back later on and be glad for it.